Friday, July 25, 2014

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2014 Couture Review

                         This collection started out quite dark and dramatic, the clothes reminding me of the  Hunger Games wardrobe; sharp shapes, with an obvious severity. Not necessarily things I myself would wear, but they had style and eccentricity. Four was very square. It was a little tunic-like top in black with a giant henna style flower emerging from the right side. I especially loved the wide sleeves. The flower and color of the top was very glossy and glamorous. Look six reminded me of Krizia, with the layering and shape of the collar. Again, very severe and dramatic, but at the same time very beautiful. Eight was too weird for me; the collar...or cape.... looked like a baby bib! But my oh my.... look nine! Velvety and dark and white... perfection I tell you! The white hood draped down to join the top. I loved the effortless glam it gave off. Look twelve was stereotypical ''goth'' (not to mention the model's makeup) and looked childish, with the puffy white fur at the bottom.
                          After this the outfits were filler and more  dark looks. But nineteen was a chic, shiny coat with a typical sweater pattern. Very crisp. Twenty three brought out my EXTREME  weakness for ostriche feathers, and red with black. The top was an explosion of feathers, and then the bottom half was a weave of black and red. So fall. Twenty four looked perfect, especially with my favorite color combo again, but I'm not comfortable wearing fur. Look 25 reminded me of a period, and not the grammatical kind, for obvious reasons. I don't find anything wrong with that, though. Just, um, a little awkward? But fashion is here to tastefully test the boundaries, and that, darling, is what a talented designer is SUPPOSED TO DO. On a less anatomical note: I hate to  use such a vapid word, but 27 was so glam! The dark black sheen shimmered, and the wrap went right with the stiff cape. Twenty nine was too boxy. Thirty one reminded me of horse hair. Blech. Thirty two was straight out of Alexander McQueen's VOSS collection, his dress with the sheer (though looking a tad muddy!) skirt, and woven bodice. Though Gaultier's was a different color, I thought it was more of an imitation than an inspiration.
                          Thirty four's coat was too puffy, and the jump suit made me question whether or not you can never have too much velvet. Thirty six through eight were just too black and velvet. Black is a fabulous color, but it went  far over the limit in this collection. Forty one's skirt overwhelmed the top half, and the hat/hood and sleeves just looked strange... and not good strange, like eccentricity. Forty three was ugly, lets be honest; there are enough rappers in this world wearing giant gold chains. Do I really need to see them in couture? Forty four's gold color looked artificial. Maybe like a fake gold chain? Finally, in forty five, we discovered a downright beautiful dress. It was a long maxi dress in sequins, in hazy late summer day colors,   the shimmer of the sequins shining like a gas spill. I also really liked look forty eight; again, quite shiny, but I love shine, and red/black just as much. A perfect dress for me. The last look, fifty, looked childish, like an angel costume.
                     I loved the mysteriousness of this collection, and the GLAM looks. But the filler was quite cumbersome, and some of the looks were just ugly, which is especially disappointing with designers like Gaultier who have such talent and creativity. Grace Coddington said that the job of fashion editors is to make people dream; and I hold that expectation up to designers as well.

Friday, July 18, 2014

Christian Dior Fall 2014 Couture Review

                          Dior is well known for the shape of their dresses and jackets; its almost their signature to make shapely clothes. But look 1 of this collection was way too much. I mean, the top is THAT skinny, and then ba-bam, jumbo skirt? Not a good look on anybody. Look 2 was much better, with a top that transitioned well into a big skirt. I also liked the contrasting sleeves and minimal floral embroidery. And the skirt was just plain Dior. I hated 3; who in their right mind would wear this? The shape was too distracting for anyone to notice the wearer. Again, stereotypical ''CRAZY FASHION OUTFIT.'' After this we had a few super plain looks and more ugly shapes. Look 9, luckily, was a stylish, feminine belted white jumpsuit, with simply gorgeous pink flower embroidery; pure, light, and airy. Ten was too ''boho'' for me. It looked done before and hippie -ish. Eleven was a simple, long white coat with a kind of pop out skirt. Simple looks with fun shapes or details are the best; the wearer can be interesting along with  the outfit.
                      Seventeen had the same pop out skirt element, except  the -outs were slightly separated. The dress was pink and poufy, very Miu Miu. Look nineteen was another look I loved, though very different. Super long and pitch black, it had the simpleness of Dior looks that I love, along with a flattering  drape. And oh, how I love round sleeves! 20 was too simple; really, no buttons even? Twenty one through eight were also quite bland, and twenty three through five were particularly shocking; those took no thought at all! I could get a fur coat anywhere that looked like those! Looks 29-33 were boring. Just teeny little white dresses, some embroidery, and mismatch sleeves. Look 36 was a super cute, long pink coat with little plants and birds(?) all along the border.
                     I loved look 38 even more; it was a fantastic long black jacket with spring flowers all on the border. The black color made the flowers pop. After this the jackets were pretty meh, but 44 was a cute little (or long, rather) white fringed number, with one blue dot on the right side. Extremely glamourous, while at the same time fun. 47 was too wall paper-y for my liking. The collar in 49 was way, way too big. The collar is important, but it should never take over the outfit; and on we trudged further through too-big collars, the very worst offenders being 55-57. It just looks plain obnoxious, over sized, and frankly, ugly, PEOPLE! But oh my goodness... 58!!!!! Unique, pretty, stylish, the full package. I loved the two parts of the dress, and how the outer layer of the skirt splits off with little thistle or wheat type plants in blue and red on it. The way it elegantly floated through the air wasn't all that bad either.
                  I really didn't like 61. It appeared very sloppy and ''geometric.'' The shapes fashion should be focused on are bodies, not actual ''shapes.'' The remind me too much of geometry *shudders violently*. Although I am sure some designer could combine the concepts of geometry with fashion;  this was not one of those occasions, unfortunately. But the collection finished off with a pretty, very  pale orange pastel  dress, with four lines coming out of the middle as if to hold up the skirt. I love subtle detailing the draws attention but doesn't overwhelm.
                  This collection was worth looking through, and it did have quite a few standout pieces. But some of the looks were just so ugly, and that was a bit distracting.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Chanel Fall 2014 Couture Review

                      Until look 6, the clothes were extremely bland and predictable; grays, tweeds, blah blah blah. But 6 was a gorgeous aquamarine sheath dress, with big blue baubles all over. Very wintery, though not very warm-y. 8 was hideously robotic. It reminded me of when on TV or a movie they'll parody fashion shows, and have the most ridiculous outfits possible. 9 was a pretty sky blue dress, very long and fluffy. Like a cloud... made of sky? 12 was a shimmering, languid dress. Relaxed glamor. Most of the looks after this, until 23, were almost obnoxiously typical; as if Chanel is trying to say ''Hahaha! We can make the same clothes over and over again, and label happy rich people will still buy them!'', or just rip offs of Dolce and Gabbana looks, with all the gold. But I loved 23. It took a little from Chanel's ready to wear Western themed collection, with the fraying and fringe. But it also had an extremely obvious fall/halloween inspiration. Finally- a fun, not predictable, take on classic Chanel! 24 did not work at all; if the coat was just the bottom part, then I would love it... but the bushy Cookie Monster fur? It looks ill fitting! 25 had the color and drape of a garbage bag.
               27 had the layering and fluffiness of 9, but was silver/gray and much shorter. And it had ostriche feather cut off sleeves, which made it so couture, so museum worthy. 28 was worrisome; did she get stuck in a computer chip cyclone? Finally, at 41 (I know I know) we got a decent look. It was a deep red Christmas color jacket and skirt set. This collection's shades and colors were well fitting for its season. 43 was a gorgeous fall leaf color dress, extremely glittery and shimmering. I also liked the almost ''galactic'' looking sleeves. And the skirt's texture was so artistic. 44 unfortunately was quite ugly. The shape was too exaggerated, and it looked more like a structure than a dress. 58 was a chic, thick, simple wool jacket and skirt (and shorts underneath) in orange/red. It was  simple, but in an artistic-Calvin Klein-way.
                  Look 59's tweed was in a terrible office carpeting shade. Not special and not pretty. 60 was plain strange; it looked like the main inspiration was a pumpkin! The shoulders, the print, and the shade were too much all at once. I loved 61 (despite it being worn by Kendall Jenner who is only on the runway due to nepotism and chance of birth)  for its ostriche feather sleeves (they just scream fabulous) and its print's combination of winter and fall. Look 66 looked like Cousin It. 67 was pure snow princess (why didn't Chanel do the wardrobe for Frozen?) and just plain couture. Shining silver prettiness. So feminine and so elegant.
                  This collection was not a favorite of mine. There was far too much filler, shapes far too exaggerated, Dolce and Gabbana inspo, and just general plainness. The highlights were the orange fall looks and silver looks.

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Schiaparelli Fall 2014 Couture Review

                                  I can safely say that this collection was much more exciting and Schiaparelli-esque than the first collection with Zanini. But it was not perfect.
                               Look 1 was ugly. Basically it was a shapeless board with enormous fur sleeves. And the protruding shoulders were not flattering at all. 80's shoulder pads are dead and gone. 2's jacket was also ugly, but I loved the dress, especially the embroidery. Shimmery and messy, like it was eating away the dress. 3's sweater had a cute-vintage-y print of a heart pierced by an arrow, an original Schiaparelli print. 4 was even better, with again the heart, but more arrows and on a black velvet dress. Surreal. 6, though in light pink and with a glittering ''ES'' on the right upper side, was quite ominous. Even intimidating. The shoulders were slightly broad, but not overpowering. I loved it. The contrast of pink and intimidating was fascinating. 9 stuck out as the most outlandish, fun, and ''Schiaparelli'' of outfits. The vest was light blue with embroidered circles, and then it had leopard print sleeves. I adored it. The birthday hat made it even better. Zanini said he was nervous with his first collection for Schiap, but he really dared this time.
                           Look 11 was another awesome look;  a red and plush coat, like Elmo from Sesame Street. It looked so warm and touchable. 13 was kind of...ick for me. The shape was too exaggerated, and it  was trying to be in the stereotypical ''Asian'' style, i.e. very appropriative. Look 15 was too beautiful for words. It was super dark  (like Schiap's ''Shocking Pink''?)(I need to stop) blue, had fabric that looked so smooth and shiny, and the little moths and bugs made it fun. Very much like the last Gaultier couture collection, and Givenchy, but still very different and stylish. I wish I could have it!
  17 really spoke to my penchant for wearing animal themed/print outfits; how could I not want to wear a yellow, couture dress, with PURPLE SQUIRRELS?! Perfect for the eccentric heiress in your life. 20 was fun, the way the pink and silver were sewn together, but looked like they were tied or weaved at the top. And 21 had bees! I'm beginning to think fashion designer are really passionate about our bee-loss issue. On a fashion critique note, I love dresses that have the mermaid shape, and then have something like flowers or really anything else, descending down the skirt. And this was a great example of that.
                     22 was Gaultier in its dark, velvety hyper femininity. Look 24 was way too neon. The dress was all one color, and yet SO LOUD. And the last look, 25, was a puffy dramatic gown with not swans, doves, or even parrots; but everyday city pigeons! Finally they get their just due.
                          I was extremely impressed by Marco Zanini being so daring and seriously giving his all to pay homage to Schiap while still doing his own thing. My main complaints were looks that were too garish, or wide. But it was a huge improvement from Zanini's first collection.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Miu Miu Resort 2015 Review

                                     This collection was much more toned down, and not as bombastically colorful, as the last Miu Miu collection. But it still had a touch of the last's 60's sensibilities, what with the first look's military jacket (very ''British rockstar''), in dark blue. 2 was a lot like 1, but again, again, AND YET AGAIN; please, no random swatches of fabric! It never makes the outfit more interesting. Considering Miu Miu ( and Prada's) history for being very feminine and shape-conscious, 3 was pretty shocking. Slouchy pajamas? Ugh. 4 was too much like a certain Marc Jacobs collection I know (spring 2014), with the tropical leaves and trippy shapes. 5 and 7's macrame and/or crochet tank tops looked amateur. I know that's supposed to be cool and ''avant garde''...but no. Crochet has been done before.
                               I really loved look 9. It reminded me of the Mary Quant dress/jumpers from early in her career. The sapphire beads gave an art-deco feel. 10's beaded flowers(?) looked truly misplaced. Until 16 we traveled through the land of filler and repeats from before (and these slight variations were not exciting, at all). 16 was pure white, very ''flowy'' and Chloe (the brand, not me). The middle of the top reminded me of the Sarah Burton-at-McQueen bee inspired collection. 19's dress was beautiful and tropical, without ripping off Marc Jacobs too much. I loved how it was ''tropical'' and ''spring'', but in black. 20 had an elegant air of dark, feminine mystery. The contrasting, yet matching, dark blue dress with sheer sleeves was very stylish and pretty. 23 and 24 came across as a cliched to death (and back again, and than death again, in an eternal circle) ''Chanel'' look.
                   I enjoyed the dark blue looks in this collection (especially the sheer sleeves) and the flowing looks. But it did not come close to living up to the Ready to Wear collection.