I can safely say that this collection was much more exciting and Schiaparelli-esque than the first collection with Zanini. But it was not perfect.
Look 1 was ugly. Basically it was a shapeless board with enormous fur sleeves. And the protruding shoulders were not flattering at all. 80's shoulder pads are dead and gone. 2's jacket was also ugly, but I loved the dress, especially the embroidery. Shimmery and messy, like it was eating away the dress. 3's sweater had a cute-vintage-y print of a heart pierced by an arrow, an original Schiaparelli print. 4 was even better, with again the heart, but more arrows and on a black velvet dress. Surreal. 6, though in light pink and with a glittering ''ES'' on the right upper side, was quite ominous. Even intimidating. The shoulders were slightly broad, but not overpowering. I loved it. The contrast of pink and intimidating was fascinating. 9 stuck out as the most outlandish, fun, and ''Schiaparelli'' of outfits. The vest was light blue with embroidered circles, and then it had leopard print sleeves. I adored it. The birthday hat made it even better. Zanini said he was nervous with his first collection for Schiap, but he really dared this time.
Look 11 was another awesome look; a red and plush coat, like Elmo from Sesame Street. It looked so warm and touchable. 13 was kind of...ick for me. The shape was too exaggerated, and it was trying to be in the stereotypical ''Asian'' style, i.e. very appropriative. Look 15 was too beautiful for words. It was super dark (like Schiap's ''Shocking Pink''?)(I need to stop) blue, had fabric that looked so smooth and shiny, and the little moths and bugs made it fun. Very much like the last Gaultier couture collection, and Givenchy, but still very different and stylish. I wish I could have it!
17 really spoke to my penchant for wearing animal themed/print outfits; how could I not want to wear a yellow, couture dress, with PURPLE SQUIRRELS?! Perfect for the eccentric heiress in your life. 20 was fun, the way the pink and silver were sewn together, but looked like they were tied or weaved at the top. And 21 had bees! I'm beginning to think fashion designer are really passionate about our bee-loss issue. On a fashion critique note, I love dresses that have the mermaid shape, and then have something like flowers or really anything else, descending down the skirt. And this was a great example of that.
22 was Gaultier in its dark, velvety hyper femininity. Look 24 was way too neon. The dress was all one color, and yet SO LOUD. And the last look, 25, was a puffy dramatic gown with not swans, doves, or even parrots; but everyday city pigeons! Finally they get their just due.
I was extremely impressed by Marco Zanini being so daring and seriously giving his all to pay homage to Schiap while still doing his own thing. My main complaints were looks that were too garish, or wide. But it was a huge improvement from Zanini's first collection.