Monday, January 27, 2014

Jean Paul Gaultier spring 2014 Haute Couture

                              This collection was glamorous and dark, a look Gaultier has perfected in his prolific career.
                   Look 2's opened and lengthened shoulders gave off a tough and sharp edge. I can imagine the shoulders swinging with each step the model takes. 6 was just perfect. A casual black suit, but with dark blue butterfly wings for a collar! So abstract, yet so subtle. Put together, 8 was edgy and full of attitude, but aside from the cranberry color gloves, the individual pieces weren't that interesting. 10 was fabulous. A lush aquamarine belted top. This is one of the best spring looks I have ever seen. Light and new. The extra fabric in the back gave it that ''couture'' touch. I love how so many designers are turning potentially boring pieces into works of art, just by adding extra fabric in the back or side. Look 12 looked ripped up and sloppy. Couture should never look sloppy. 13.... had....denim. No denim, please! The world could use less denim! I love my Lee bell bottoms, and vintage jeans, but couture is a special place, for spectacular fabrics. It's supposed to have a fantastical, almost imaginary element. If couture reminds you too much of normal clothes, to me at least, it isn't quite doing it's job.
                    Look 15 was kitschy. Luce Jr.'s outfits from Lucille Ball's later show, The Lucy Show, came to mind. Loud and awkward (and in Luce's case, horrifically too short. But the show was really funny, so I'll assume the outfits were for comedic effect). 16 was an almost literal blaze of fire. The print was fire, and the skirt was trimmed and frilled in the shape of an actual kindling fire. Glamor in it's most ferocious form. I thought 19's metallic and mosaic style print was loud, and the cut made it look like a house robe. 21 was so different from all of these looks. Deep red mesh maxi skirt (meant to be worn over a longer shirt, as shown in the show), that explodes at the very bottom into a huge puff of red and white tulle. The greatest version of the ''mermaid'' look that I have ever seen
                  Look 23 was basically a costume. No part of it related to actual clothing. 24 also went with the butterfly shape, but had a skirt. I really liked this one. The hot pink was so right, and the dark lace around the edges (along with the frills) made it edgy and gorgeous, not petty and pretty like many a pink outfit. 27 was a favorite. Unbeknownst to me...jackets can actually look this good? It wasn't just a museum piece, and it also wasn't just clothes; in actuality, it's a jacket that directly says something about the wearer, an unabashed individuality. Black mesh, with short sleeves that pop out black puffed out tulle at the bottom. On the collar, a straight, simple bow. 28 unfortunately reminded me of a maggot infestation. After this, it was all pretty garish and exhibitionist until 35. Blue, black, purple, and green top and skirt are swept right up to the sky, in the same direction, as if blown by wind. The shades were perfect together, and it's uniqueness gave that fantastical couture feeling we all love.
             Look 38 was wearable art. Metallic black/orange splotches, with a butterfly of the same colors on the right shoulder formed a  top with a wrap skirt.  40 was just as rad. Slim, hot pink dress with mesh fabric over the bottom, with more colorful splotches, and an almost camouflaged butterfly on the chest. Very gothic. 41 is in my top five favorite look's of the spring 2014 couture collections. First its a leather motorcycle jacket, and then it slowly morphs into a delicate and fluffy mermaid skirt with the tiniest black dots at the top. 42 was the funnest piece in the couture collections. A dark blue corset with butterfly wings for the skirt, and top wings at the bust. The color was perfect, like an actual butterfly. The small skirt looks so smooth, and this piece was definitely the best one of the collection. It goes completely out of the norm of washed out white and beige that so many designers use now.
           I didn't quite understand why 44 was in the collection. A pretty dress, but why do we need a flapper dress in a butterfly themed collection? 45 was another flapper style dress, but went all the way to the ankle and had beautiful strings of pearls draped from every surface. On the hip there was a tiny silver butterfly attached to the pearls. The final look, the bride, wasn't traditional at all, (it wasn't even a dress) but it was fun. The leotard was way too revealing, but I would love to have the wig and veil. This collection was different and fabulous. It didn't try to be stylish, which led it to actually being stylish. Stylish isn't a certain color, or drape. A little provocation and eccentricity doesn't always have to be immature. It usually comes out beautiful, and stays in our hearts forever.
               
              

Friday, January 24, 2014

Everything Is So Clear To Me (Christian Dior Spring 2014 Couture)

                     In case you didn't know, I seriously love Dior. I love my #999 lipstick, the pieces designed by Dior himself, and almost all of what Raf Simons designs for the house. So much of it is just, um, PERFECTION?! This collection is going to be one of my favorites in this season's couture collections.
                 All of the looks are very dark or white, except for a few blue pieces. Extremely modern, and extremely well made. 2 was so nice. The one shoulder black frilled dress, with a sheer half white/half black circle pattern. The uneven sides actually worked artistically, and you could tell there was a lot of thought into how ''uneven'' they made it look. It was not a last minute lets-make-it-artsy tactic. Look 3 was another beauty, with a white dress and jacket pair. The white gave it a casual look, but the holes made it an outfit sure to receive complements. I loved 4 even more. It was a mini dress version of 3, with a draped and hanged pure white back. 5 was too much like an over sized t shirt. 6 was a classic Dior suit, with an hourglass jacket. The evenly distributed black eyelets on the jacket gave it such a chic touch. Look 7's sleeves were kind of ugly to me. Why should your upper arm be really thin, and then your forearm super wide? Bell bottoms do not work for sleeves!
                    By 13 we got out of Adidas-like-sportswear and super sized dresses. 13 was another favorite, hole-y and black, with a separate low on the high-low skirt. High low skirts can look typical, but when the part that's low is  cut off from the dress, it can look gorgeous. And 14! Is it not perfect? At first I thought the outer, longer skirt with the holes didn't go around the back (which in case your wondering, would be horrible), but thankfully it did go around. It was  pure white, and the skirt gave that exaggerated curvy Dior look we all love. <3 DREAM DRESS <3 RIGHT HERE MY FRIENDS!
               17 had a weird appendage coming out at the model's right. I'm not really sure how I feel about 20. It definitely isn't ugly, but the extra hole fabric seemed a little too much. I couldn't believe how perfectly spring look 24 was. The bursting pink roses, the light fabric, the one button...it just goes right with those cool yet refreshingly warm days in May and June. 25's floral pattern reminded me of a Victorian upholstery pattern (which is not my favorite kind of upholstery), but the blue/pink rose coat gave the outfit an almost imaginary element. Do blue roses actually naturally happen?  Don't get me wrong; I loved the jacket. And I also love imaginary things!
              Look 18 gave off a synesthesia -like feeling The light pink, and drape, made you practically feel the fabric, despite only seeing the color. I can imagine it being soft and light, like a  rose petal after it rained. But let's hope it's not wet; we don't want our couture goods damaged! 29 was just odd. The peplum (or whatever it was) did not belong that far up. 31 starts as a sleeveless shirt, and then explodes into a thick, textured, and very wide dress. I think there were four leaf clovers on it? Anyway, it was another favorite. 34 was too exposing and casual. Yet another favorite was found in look 35. Like almost all the pieces, it had the airy feel and holes, but this time it was a gray high-low dress with black spikes. Spikes done well on a couture piece are rare and one of my favorite things to see. This piece reminded me of a rare poisonous plant, or  insect.
                         37 was a smooth, wide white dress with the most subtle and well placed embroidery I have seen in a long time. The wide high low skirt made it look like a little couture cocoon. Look 42 made me wonder if I was looking at a cheese burger pattern or a dress. 46 was really odd. Why do I need an extra length of fabric hanging out at the top of my dress? Look 50 was one of my MOST favorites. It had the beautiful, airy white of the collection, and an optical illusion. White satin emerges from the front of the shoulder, goes behind the back, and seems to come right out through the torso and above the hip.
                All of these looks fit well with their season, and almost all fantastically. The looks were perfect for spring, modern in a way that doesn't try to look trashy, and the light sheers had a stain glass element. One of my very, very favorites.

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Valentino Spring 2014 Haute Couture

                      I have been excitedly waiting for the couture shows for so long, it literally pains me. Schiaparelli has been revived, and couture is usually, in general, gorgeously fantastic. The bold colors, rare fabrics, lush bridal gowns....SIMPLY FABULOUS is all I can say to describe it. \
                Look 1 was a very light, white semi sheer dress with musical notes on the skirt, and a soft train. The puffs at the sleeves looked misplaced. 2 was dark black/sheer, with elegant black feathers down the sleeves and back. A very sheer top, yes, but we always have a slip. 3 was one of of my favorites. The tops was a bit too just enough to cover up, but the skirt was incredible. Adam and Eve were embroidered on the skirt, with beautiful blossoms and a deer and horse. The gray/blue skirt was a perfect back drop. Look 4 was one of my least favorite. The jacket looked like a night robe, and the lion was so immature. 5 was another favorite; I just wish they didn't have to present it that sheer. The subtle brown and white shades perfectly complemented the fluffy white feathers wrapped around the bodice. Look 6 was a sort of red version of five. The red wine shade with the tulle was so pretty, and the snake wrapped around the bodice was so eccentric.
                8 did the absurd jungle drawings (which in case you didn't notice, I do not like). Look 9 seemed to plain to me to be couture. 10 had pretty colors, but the 3-D butterflies were garish. Like a military/deer hunter camouflage suit. 12 was very sloppy and makeshift. 13 was very subtle, which as I mentioned usually doesn't do well on couture, but the fringed cape and and slim dress were very stylish. 14 was kind of a suit version of 13, except very ugly with horribly placed fringe. Yuck. 
        Up until 21, it was all weird fringe and ''tribal'' prints. We've dumbed down so many cultures, that now they just combine into one word, tribal? 21 looked like diseased skin. The lace  was yellowed in a not preserved well way. This is one of the most boring collections I've ever seen. The same types of looks kept coming, and the drapes/dresses were so un-flattering. 37 was an improvement, with subtle lace, not garish and loud. Look 38 was another nice outfit, with the brown background and scattered floral pattern that gathered at the bust. Delightfully detailed. 40 was lingerie with a cape.
          Look 41 had to be my favorite. A dark black, long tulle ballet skirt, with small 3-D black butterflies placed around the collar. One of those pieces you dream of having. Look 42 on the other hand was one of the most hideous coats I have ever seen. It was basically brown and black garbage bags folded into flowers, with yes, more fringe. 45 was a curtain.
           The rest of the collection was more ''tribal'' prints, metallic curtains, and table cloth lace. Some of the pieces, like 3 and 41, were so beautiful, that they could inspire anyone, in any medium, to realize what an art fashion can be. But Valentino, both when he himself was at the label  and now with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, have made so many gorgeous pieces. You expect something fantastic every time. This was quite a disappointment.

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Ever Fantabulous Makeup Classics

                        Hello! I am, fortunately, having a pretty good day. I got my flash cards all ready for studying for my exams (my home study school does finals after Christmas and New Years. I'm guessing so you don't spend the whole break paranoid about your grades), my W Magazine ''The Movie Issue'' came in (along with my finals ELLE. Time to renew my subscription!), and I actually got to doing a post I promised! But of course it was late. Well, I'm no miracle worker.
                   I am wearing Dior #999, which when Christian Dior introduced it was simply #9, but Dior has reintroduced the same shade, just with a different number. Natalie Portman is wearing the shade in the Dior makeup adds this season.

                               This picture gives you a better look at the blush. It's from the NARS Guy Bourdin collection. Before the collection I had never heard of Bourdin's photography, but now I have! His elegant and very pastel photos are given a fantastic tribute through this blush. Like, no matter how much gentle you put it on, IT IS BRIGHT! Bourdin's photos were done mostly in the 70's, so the makeup is also inspired by the disco era.


                      The beautiful blush surrounded by flowers:


                                 Dior #999



                             Another classic makeup revival: In 1978, Yves Saint Laurent started a makeup line, and his main thing was unusual mascara colors, like this one, in maroon. W magazine, in this article, gives a better look at how it looks on a person. The key to making the maroon really show is try your best not to layer too much.



Sunday, January 5, 2014

Brocade Garden

                       This gorgeous brocade jacket was a Christmas gift from dad, from one of my favorite vintage shops (i also got my sister a mouse bank from the Ed Sullivan show). The first pose is one of my favorite classic fashion poses. It's not flashy, but wondrously elegant. Tomorrow a super cold snap is coming, so I'll have plenty of time to do a makeup post. My mom got me a Sephora gift card, and yesterday I bought a bunch of fun, classic pieces. Dior #999 (the likes of Marlene Dietrich and Josephine Baker wore this shade), Yves Saint Laurent mascara in plum (Over 30 years ago Laurent introduced him makeup line, and with that his famous plum shade), and a super pink blush from the Nars Guy Bourdin collection.



Friday, December 27, 2013

Present But Mostly Past


Merry late Christmas! I spent the few days before Christmas a.) Emergency shopping on, yes, Christmas Eve, and 2., shopping at the Village Discount. Basically I got this blue dress from Sears and orange coat, both vintage. I also got an ACT prep book, but that's a most unfortunate event.

             My mom endearingly calls this my ''Smurf Dress'', or my ''Edith Bunker dress''.
                                 For Christmas I got three vintage issues of Interview magazine, the magazine Andy Warhol published until his death in 1987. Priscilla Presley covers this one, the 1979 Christmas issue. The advertisements include a Happy New Year's greeting from Diane von Furstenberg and on the back a ''Merry Christmas, from Halston.''

         Priscilla Presley: Are you really involved in politics? Andy: No, we just go to every party.
                Linda Hutton is on this cover:

                             And, Phoebe Cates:
The funniest part about the interviews in these magazines is the name dropping in the interviews. Andy just off handedly offers to introduce Priscilla to Calvin Klein.In the back of the magazine is the column ''Out'', reviews of different parties in France and New York. One of these is the Executive Editor, Bob Colacello's, story of traveling on the book signing circuit with Andy for Andy's book, Exposures. The guests in the regular Out columb include Yves Saint Laurent and Diana Vreeland. And, in the June 1982 issue, Andre Leon Talley (who started out as a secretary at The Factory), best known for his work at Vogue, is listed as Fashion Editor and interviews the couturier John Galanos.


                                  ^^ I have been wanting  this book for so long. It's the book that coincides with the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute's exhibit of McQueen's work. His most beautiful and mysterious pieces are included, and the interview with Sarah Burton (the current Creative Director, aka Designer) in the back is delightful. It's miraculous how McQueen turned dark subjects into some of the most beautiful clothes imaginable. Have a Happy New Year's eve! Because the beginning of the new year just ends Christmas break.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Chic Police

              In Elle magazine's recent article about Oscar de la Renta and his 50th anniversary of his company, he says he doesn't like the words ''pretty'' and ''chic'', but prefers style. Which I certainly agree with. Chic and pretty aren't words that really bring to mind any kind of substance. Better words would probably be ''beautiful'', or ''gorgeous'' (or their inevitable alternatives, at times, ''horrendous'' ''horrific'' and any other word that could connotates natural disaster, but applied to clothing) as descriptors. But the title for my review of his pre fall collection went together so well, with the military style jackets and the fact that ''Fashion Police'' has already been used. Onward!
         Look 1's deep purple jacket and skirt was too monochromatic for me. Purple is an excellent color, but this was too much. The jacket and skirt would look okay separately, but the color still was too dark for me. 2, on the other hand...wow. I love it! The pitch black layered jacket and semi-sheer skirt was so beautiful. One of those outfits that's just enough casual and just enough out there to be perfect. 3 was a filler look. The only way to describe it was long black dress. Done. 4 was too artificial. The jacket, again, too purple/bluish, and the pattern was a lame effort to make a long coat interesting. And no buttons? Ick. Look 5 was so sloppy! The jacket was practically a long thin blanket with pockets, and pants were wide, but not bell bottoms. Just say no to wide pants that are not bell bottoms! The green in the jacket, and blue in the pants, were just the wrong colors. Very Macy's sale rack. Look 6 was another flat jacket with boring print, and the skirt with leaves and one bird looked like a photo, almost. Also, Pier 1 Imports ''art.''  I'm more into patterns. 7 was filler. The structure of 8's sweater was fabulous. It flared out perfectly, and the braided twists were excellently placed. 9's jacket was a copy of classic Chanel, and skirt, again, filler.
            Look 14 was better than most of the looks, but it still wasn't all that exciting or ''new.'' The jacket looked like a sweatshirt. And the looks before were a slouchy jacket and way too much plaid for comfort. One of my favorites was 15, a belted black top with polka dot holes, also in the skirt. The top in 16 was too casual and hippie. The white and black plaid square in the middle of 17's jacket was just strange. I found a favorite in look 18's dress. The top is just black, but then the skirt starts with white lines and dots descending down, and then we have a white skirt with black speckles. The marks on the skirt reminded me of diamonds. Look 19's print was basically a Michael Kors for T.J. Maxx swimsuit print turned into a skirt suit. Blech. 20, on the other hand, brought back the beautiful skirt of 18, and the paisley/sheer jacket was a perfect mix of very different patterns. But did the Michael Kors print really have to sneak in, in the under shirt?
          21 had to be my favorite. A long, elegant dress with the most minimal print, outlined by the print in 18 that I loved so much. The matching dress had one of my favorite trends, a modest dress but just with the very top in brown sheer. 22 waited to long to poof out. It looked awkward. Look 23 wasn't very elegant or beautiful, but it had a slight cute aspect to it. Not a very mature look. I am going to assume look 24 was supposed to appear very extravagant and lush, but the way the dress draped and the diamond (?) bow was sloppy (why can't sloppy just stay with sweatshirts?). Look 25 was an all black gothic outfit. It should've been in the ''Chaos To Couture'' exhibit at the Met (which I went to-it was amazing!) Look 26 was plain ugly, and I might add that even the model didn't look all that impressed.
          Look 27 reminded me of fall themed hotel wallpaper. With 28 came yet MORE wallpaper. But this time I think it was swanky hotel wallpaper. If that could possibly make it any better. 30 was certainly better than the wall paper looks,  and had more structure, but the glittery lace on top of the bright, dark blue was too loud. And 31! It was the fringed curtain that would go WITH the hotel wallpaper. AHHH! Look 32 looked very plastic, and straight out of ''Seventeen's Prom Dress Special- $95 Dollars and Less!''Up until 36 the looks were also very prom, but 36 was one of my favorites. The thick folds on the chest and the flat draping skirt was gorgeous. Rich red wine colored top with a hot pink skirt. A perfect color pairing. 37 was too much like a quilt. The purple body and red flowers just didn't go together, and the skirt was way too wide.
          The last few looks were the best. Look 38's yellow gown that blends into lavender at the bottom was so lush. Lavendar lemonade (Taylor Swift's favorite drink- duh!). The white flowers with gold stems worked well to, and didn't upstage the colors. 39 was, yes, ANOTHER hotel curtain (sorry). Luckily the last look, 40,  was a good finish. A very light lavender gown with a sculpturally folded skirt.
       This collection had some really horrible moments, but standouts like 36 and 21 made it worth it. But designers seriously need to try harder now, or just make less collections.